Friday, 28 January 2011

Chapter 6 - Patterning of Fabrics Using Cold Water Dyes and Fabric Paints


2041    A collection of black and white patterned fabrics

 

SHIBORI METHODS USING DYES

I mixed 10g of black dye to 10ml water to ensure a strong density of black dye.

The results from my first attempt at dyeing were not very dark. For my second attempt I pre-soaked the fabric with soda ash which gave much better results.
I dyed a dozen pieces of fabric plain black for a later exercise. I left this in a bag with dye, salt and soda ash for 12 hours. The resulting black was much more successful, however, whenI left my shibori in the dye for longer than half an hour, the dye seeped beneath my thread and coloured the entire fabric. Even though my fingers were sore after gathering the threads as tightly as I could, I still don't think they were tight enough!
After four attempts, I feel I have some reasonably satisfactory results but will experiment again when I have more time.


2042 was rolled and wrapped tightly with string, then dipped into dye.

2043 was rolled into a tube, and wrapped tightly with string in just 3 places.


2044 was scrunched up into a tight ball and wrapped tightly with string.

2045 was folded into triangles and held tightly with pegs, then dipped into dye.

2046 was folded into a rectangle, then held together with pegs and dipped in dye.

TRITICK SHIBORI

2047 was folded into wavy 'pin tucks', hand stitched with upholstry thread, gathered tightly and dipped into dye.

2048 was gathered tightly in straight lines and dipped into dye.

I was disappointed with both of the above. The stitches did not create much of a resist. Perhaps the stitches were too small, so I was not able to gather them tightly enough.

ARASHI SHIBORI

2049 was wrapped around a section of plastic drainpipe, wrapped tightly with string which was then pushed together to 'ruche' the fabric. This was then painted with black dye.

MONOPRINTING

I applied Jacquard textile paint to a sheet of perspex and created patterns using plastic card and colour shapers. The stronger images on the left are the first prints, whilst the 'second prints' on the right are more faded.


2050 was created with a plastic store card with a series of 'teeth' cut into it.


2051 was created by twisting the edge of a strip of cardboard.


2052 was a cross-hatch of lies made with the edge of a plastic store card.


2053 was created by a colour shaper used in a dioagonal stabbing motion.


2054. In one of her books, Ruth Issett suggests dropping lines of paint onto a perpex sheet and pressing another one tightly against it. When pulled apart, the paint forms a delicate 'feathered' effect, which can be monoprinted as above.

SCREEN PRINTING


2056 and 2057 are printed through torn paper stencils.



2057 is printed through a supermarket fruit net, and gives a lovely snakeskin effect.

Saturday, 8 January 2011

Chapter 5 - Making Patterned Papers



Ink Marks
These patterns were all made with a cardboard applicator. I was able to recreate an effect of observed animal makings quite easily: 2029 giving the appearance of a zebra pattern, 2030: snake, or lizard skin, 2031: porkupine, and 2032: octopus.
I love the faded effect that appears as the ink runs out during application. The graduated tones could be achieved by graduating the density of stitch, or thickness of thread as in the blackwork stitching samples, either by hand or machine.



Bleach Marks
The side of a plastic card, applying bleach in an arc motion created a lovely feather effect in 2034. 'Hairy' textured wool dagged bleach across the page in different directions on 2035 gave the cracked appearance of elephant skin. A tin foil pastry case, crumpled and stamped into bleach gave the attractive mottled effect of leopard skin.
I love the luminous quality of the 'bleached-out' tissue paper. It would be interesting to explore ways of reproducing this effect in stitch. Perhaps heavy black stitching into a transparent of translucent material, or even stitching onto disolveable stabilizer to create a lace effect.



Monoprints
2037 resembles a porkupine like pattern. I used acrylic paint for this design, but the paint dried out so quickly, I had to clean everything off before doing any more. For the other monoprints, I decided to use a waterbased screen printing ink. This was easier to use and stayed workable for longer. I found the edge of a plastic card was best for making marks. Some softer materials did not make very defined marks, and so were obliterated when transfering the design to paper. I used a 'colour shaper' for the marks on 2037.

Monday, 3 January 2011

Chapter 4 - Drawing Patterns from Animal Markings






By enlarging a section of an image, I was able to view the animal markings in abstract format.
I sketched and traced the pattern to develop a stylized version, and used various computer graphic filters to convert patterns into simplified black and white images, and reversed the picture into 'negative' view to achieve a different viewpoint.

Sunday, 12 September 2010

Jan Beaney!

On the 3rdSeptember, four mrmbers of SCCS went to the 2 day Jan Beaney workshop at Bobby Britnell's.


We stayed at a lovley B&B (http://www.lloyneymillbandb.co.uk/), and had 2 great days of stitching.



Friday, 20 August 2010

Chapter 3 - Tonal Effects in Machine Stitchery

A variety of different machine stitches used in multiple rows to cover an area, forming a gradual tone contrast from dark to light.


2018
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a) zig-zag stitch using stitch length control to graduate tone.
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b) as sample a) but also using space/distance.
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c) 3 step zig-zag adjusting stitch length.
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d) A decorative stitch, overlapping to create darker areas, and adding space to create lighter areas.
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2019
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e) An embroidery stitch, varying stitch width, stitch length, and distance between rows to create dark and light.
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f) zig-zag stitch, adjusting stitch length, and distance between rows, criss-crossed to give variation of tone.
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g) Straight stitch in rows that are not parallel to one another. The concentration of lines give a darker area, fading out to a lighter area with less stitching.
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h) As g), but using a untility stitch.
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2020
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WHIP STITCH - Stitching with a loose bobbin thread.
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i) Straight stitch. White thread in top spool, black thread in bobbin. Stitch length control knob used to graduate the tones.
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j) Satin stitch to zig-zag whip stitch. The white thread in the top spool gives an illusion of invisibility.
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k) Satin stitch to zig-zag, adjusting stitch length whilst stitching.
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l) Feather stitch in rows that are not parallel to one another. White thread in the top spool, black in the bobbin.
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2021
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CABLE STITCH - worked on the underside of the fabric. A thicker thread is hand wound onto the bobbin.
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m) Straight stitch with thick black pearle thread in the bobbin, and white machine thread in the top spool. Stitch length is adjusted to create tonal graduation.
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n) 3 step zig-zag. Thick black thread in the bobbin, white machine thread in the top spool. Tone is created by stitch density.
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o) As m) but with thick white pearle in the bobbin, and black machine thread in the top spool.
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2022
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Machine Stitched Bands to Create Animal Patterns
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top row, left to right:
zebra/mohawk, octopus/tentacles, elephant skin
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bottom row, left to right:
lizzard/snakeskin, porkupine, feathers
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Friday, 9 July 2010

Look What I Grew at Urchfont


This week I made the first, of what I hope to be many visits at the Distant Stitch Summer School at Urchfont. The work above is the result of three days hard labour under the ever watchful eye of Ruth Issett.
Ruth was fantastic, we all learned so much about mixed media mark making, mono-printing, masks, and the use of selective colour.


It was lovely to meet Sian and all the other students, some whom have attended many Summer Schools in the past. Everyone was so friendly and it was great to meet a group of people who are equally as mad about all things creative and 'stitchy' as I am!



View of the kitchen garden from my attic bedroom window.

As an 'ice-breaker' on the first night we swapped ATC's.

The food was absolutely fantastic, with cereal and a cooked breakfast every morning, followed by coffee & homemade biscuits mid morning. Lunch (and pudding!) was always delicious, but by mid afternoon it was becoming a little difficult to make room for the afternoon tea and cake, especially as we were aware that at 7pm there would be a wonderful four course meal waiting for us!